How to Make a Pattern for an Angrakha: 1/2

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In this video you will learn to make the pattern for an Angrakha.

The Angrakha is a traditional upper garment with an overlap at the chest that is tied to the left or right shoulder.

Angrakhas are widely popular among both women and men and can be made long or short.

The measurements used here are for a 4 to 5 year-old child.

To make the pattern, you will need: A pattern sheet Markers in 3 different colours A ruler A pair of scissors And a measuring tape .

Lay the pattern sheet flat on the table.

Remember that patterns are often cut ‘on fold’ for symmetry.

You therefore need to fold the pattern sheet once along its length so it forms a rectangle with two longer sides.

If you want to adapt the garment to your own size, you will need the following measurements.

The Waist circumference The Hip circumference The Bust circumference The cross back length The Arm hole depth And the Hollow-to-hem length .

We shall start by making the pattern for the back and front-left panels of the Angrakha.

To do this, start by plotting out the following points as illustrated.

This layout will provide guidelines for creating the pattern.

Mark point B, 22 inches along the fold from A, which is at the top corner.

AB = 22 inches

Then, mark point C, 5 inches along the fold from A.

AC = 5 inches

And point D, 9 inches along the fold from A.

AD = 9 inches

Mark point E, 12 inches along the fold from A.

AE = 12 inches

Next, plot out the points perpendicular to the folded edge.

Mark point F, 5 inches from A.

AF = 5 inches

Mark point G, 5 inches from C.

CG = 5 inches

Mark point H, 2 inches past G from C.

CH = 7 inches

Mark point I, 6.5 inches from D.

DI = 6.5 inches

Mark point J, 7 inches from E.

EJ = 7 inches

Mark point K, 9 inches from B, and draw a line between these points.

BK = 9 inches

You may now proceed to draw the lines EJ, DI and CH, along the width of the sheet.

Connect the points F and G.

We can now lay down the arcs guiding the front and back necklines and armholes.

Start by creating a rectangle to guide the layout of the front and back necklines.

Mark a point M, 2 Inches from A, towards F.

AF = 2 inches

Now, mark point N, 1.5 Inches from A, towards C.

AN = 1.5 inches

Finally, mark point O, 3 inches from A, towards C.

AO = 3 inches

Now, create a box around the neckline by drawing perpendicular lines from M and O till the point where they intersect with each other.

Using the layout for guidance, draw an arc between the points M and N.

The arc MN is your back neckline.

Now, draw another arc between M and O for a much lower front neckline.

MO is the front neckline.

We shall now draw the arcs that define the arm hole, followed by an outline of the side seam.

Start by marking point L, 1.5 Inches from G, towards F.

L will guide the armhole line of the back piece.

GL = 1.5 inches

You can now draw the two armhole arcs, one from F to H and the second one from H to L.

For precision, start with a dotted line and then fill up the gaps.

Now, draw a dotted line from H to K, passing through I and J.

This is your side seam.

Connect the dotted lines.

We shall now define the shoulder line and the hem allowance.

Mark point R, 0.3 inches from F towards G.

FR = 0.3 inches

Draw a line between R and M.

Mark point P, half an inch from K, towards J.

KP = 0.5 inches

Draw an arc from P into the line BK, as shown.

Now, using a second colour, mark point S, 1 inch past B, from A.

BS = 1 inch

Make another point 1 inch below the line BK.

Connect these points to define the hem allowance.

Draw an arc from K into the Hem Allowance line, parallel to the arc extending from P to BK.

You may now shade the hem allowance.

Next, we shall mark the side seam allowance of the garment.

For this, use a third colour to mark a series of equally spaced points, half an inch away from the side seam.

As shown, draw a dotted line through the marked points.

Shade the seam allowance.

You can now start cutting the pattern along the hemline and seam allowance line, as shown.

Clear the remaining pattern sheet.

Cut along the arc between N and M, Cut along the line from M to R, and beyond, past the seam allowance line.

Now, cut along the fold in order to divide your pattern into two separate parts.

You have now obtained your front and your back patterns.

Keep aside the unmarked pattern and cut along the arc that runs from O to M.

Place the patterns side-by-side.

The pattern with markings is for the front-left panel of the Angrakha.

The unmarked pattern is for the back piece.

You have now learned how to cut the pattern for the back piece and the front-left panel of the Angrakha.

Watch the remaining videos and finish your garment.

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