In this video you will learn how to make the pattern for the sleeve of a Kurti.
Remember to watch the previous video to learn how to make the primary pattern.
Start by laying the pattern sheet flat on the table.
Remember that fabrics are often cut ‘on fold’ so the pattern can be doubled over symmetrically, as in this case.
We will thus fold the paper sheet once along its length so it forms a rectangle with two longer sides.
Ensure that you have an overlap of 7.5 inches before pressing the fold into the sheet. .
Plot out the following points as illustrated.
To learn more about measurements, watch the video on Taking Measurements.
Watch the Video: How to Take Measurements .
Mark point B, 15 inches from A along the fold.
The line AB defines the sleeve length of the Kurti.
AB = 15 inches .
Mark point C, 3.5 inches from point A, towards B
AC = 3.5 inches
Now, place the ruler parallel to the fold and close to the edge of the overlapping layer.
Mark a point 3.5 inches down from the smaller side that meets A.
Mark a point 3.5 inches from the small side of the rectangle.
Then, mark point D, 6 inches from C, towards the 3.5 inch mark along the opposite edge.
CD = 6 inches
Now, draw a line perpendicular to the fold, 5 inches from B, to the point E.
BE represents the hemline of the sleeve.
BE = 5 inches.
Now, extend both sides of the arm by another inch to the points F and G, as shown.
Connect these points to draw the line BE, representing the hem allowance line.
BF = 1 inch EG = 1 inch
Draw a line from point D to G, through E.
We shall now define the part of the sleeve that attaches to the armhole.
Start by drawing a line from A to D.
Along this line, mark point H, 3.5 inches from D
DH = 3.5 inches
Mark point I, 0.9 inches outside the sleeve from H.
Now mark point J, 0.5 inches inside the sleeve from H.
HI = 0.9 inches HJ = 0.5 inches
Draw an arc from A to D through I, as shown.
This arc represents the front armhole.
Draw a second arc from A to D through J.
This arc represents the back armhole.
You can now mark the allowance for the seam and the hem of the sleeve. Using a second colour, mark a series of points 0.5 inches outside the sleeve, along the line GD.
Connect the points together with a line and shade the intermediate area, as shown.
Seam = 0.5 inches
Now, using a third colour, shade the hem allowance.
You can now start cutting the pattern along its outline.
Remove the extra bits of the pattern sheet and open out the pattern on the table.
Cut along the line from A to D that runs through J.
You can now clearly see the difference between the back and the front of the sleeve.
You have now learned how to make the pattern for the sleeves of your Kurti.
Recap AB = 15 inches AC = 3.5 inches CD = 6 inches BE = 5 inches BF = 1 inches DH = 3.5 inches HI = 0.9 inches HJ = 0.9 inches AD = 7 inches FG = 4.5 inches Seam = 0.5 inches
Don’t forget to watch the remaining videos to finish your garment!