How to Cut a Kurti: 3/3 The Neckline Interfacing

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In this video you will learn how to prepare neckline interfacing for a Kurti.

Interfacing is a good way to stiffen cuffs and collars, especially along curves, as with the neckline.

It provides thickness as well as a better finish to the fabric.

Remember to watch the previous videos to learn how to cut the primary pieces and the sleeves of the Kurti.

Take the excess piece of fabric cut away from the neckline and place it twice-folded on top of the fusing paper.

Make sure that the top layers measure a length of 6 inches.

Then, mark three points half an inch from the edge of the fusing paper and draw a line through them.

This half inch gap contains the shoulder seam allowance.

Align the fold of the fabric along this line.

Mark a series of points 2 inches outside the remaining sides of the folded piece of fabric, as shown.

Join the points to make a rectangle.

Cut the fusing paper along the edges of the rectangle, including the shoulder seam allowance.

This piece will be applied to the front neckline.

Now, repeat the same steps to cut out a piece of the paper for the back neckline.

This time, place the fabric four and a half inches into the sheet of paper.

Once again, mark a series of points 2 inches outside the remaining sides.

Connect these points and proceed to cut along the line so that you’re left with a rectangle.

Once you’re done cutting, spread an extra bit of fabric on the table and fold it over twice.

Fold the larger bit of fusing paper in half and align it, as shown, along the fold of the fabric.

Now, mark a series of points half an inch away, around the fusing paper.

Connect the marked points with a line.

Cut along the line so that you are left with two pieces of fabric that are larger than the two bits of fusing paper.

Open out the first piece of fabric.

Place a first piece of fusing paper on the fabric.

You will notice that the two sides of the paper have different textures.

The shiny side, which contains the glue, should face the fabric.

Align them along one edge.

Now, fold the the fabric onto the paper where there is extra and pin the folds in place, as shown.

Repeat the same steps to apply fusing paper to the back neckline.

Remember, only three edges have to be folded and pinned.

If the remaining edge is too long, cut it to size.

You are now ready to fuse the paper to the fabric.

To do this, flip the two pieces, so that the fusing paper is against the table.

Apply a hot iron to stick the two layers together.

Be careful to not use any steam while ironing.

The water produced can disintegrate the glue presents on the paper and reduce its sticking properties.

Remember, it is more effective to apply fusing paper on pre-washed fabric.

This helps to eliminate any oils, dirt, or other impurities present in new cloth that may reduce the glue strength.

Flip the piece to reveal the paper side of the fabric.

Fold the front neckline piece in half and place the folded cutaway fabric from the neckline on top of it.

Measure a six inch overlap as shown.

You may now draw an outline around the fabric.

Cut the interfaced fabric along the marked line.

Open up the fabric.

As you can see, it forms a ‘U’ shape similar to your back neckline.

Put the piece aside and repeat the same process on the other interfaced fabric.

This time, the length of the neckline has to be 4.5 inches.

Place the cutaway fabric on the mark just made and draw an outline around it.

Cut the interfaced fabric.

Open it up to verify dimensions.

You have now learned how to prepare neckline interfacing for a Kurti.

Watch the remaining videos and finish your garment ! .

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